Saturday, January 18, 2020

Home Depot Relies on Hosking Hardwood Flooring for Answers

Is Home Depot really the experts in Home Improvement?? Something we found interesting in our website Google Analytic statistics is that Home Depot Inc. has visited our website 584 times since the beginning of this year. It seems they are searching for answers about selling and installing hardwood flooring. We find this amazing since so many consumers think Home Depot is the place to buy flooring and yet it appears they often at times don’t know the answers to many basic hardwood flooring questions so they end up conducting a Google search.

We have attached a copy of our findings below so that you can see the search terms they used.

Here are just a few of the word searches they made that we see in our Google Analytics

  • can 3 1/4″ solid hardwood be glue
  • can 3/4 wood floor be glued down on
  • can click lock flooring be refinished
  • can you put engineered hardwood over hardwood
  • can you put a click and lock hardwood over radiant heating
  • can you sand down engineered wood floors
  • can you refinish a click lock floor?
  • can you refinish click lock flooring
  • can you use 1/2 osb for a floor
  • can you use floating wood floor in a large room
  • choosing grade for hardwood
  • click lock hardwood flooring installation infloor heating

Complete search results are here: Home Depot in Google Analytics Results for (PDF)

And Lowes Companies Inc. appears to be using for hardwood flooring answers as well. They have visited 217 times thus far this year per Google Analytics. Here are some of the search queries they used on Google searches that landed on our website:

  • what size nails do you use for 3/4 hardwood
  • what nail do i need for a half inch hardwood
  • what kind of subfloor would you use for nail down solid wood
  • why do you have to nail down 3/4 inch hardwood
  • what is engineered hardwood flooring made of
  • can solid hardwood floor be sanded
  • difference between glue down and naildown

Click here to view the entire search queries used by Lowes Companies Inc. that show up in’s Google Analytics report for 2011.


Comments: 38

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  • Victoria Cook

    Great info from your site. Where do you buy Hosking Engineered Hardwood Flooring? We were going to go to Lumber Liquidators tomorrow??? Help, and thanks! Victoria


  • sal reno

    I purchase engineer hardwood floors 3” width 38 boxes
    from home depot they have a sub-contractor who install this product in your home, they have been out 3 times and
    said the humidy is to high 12% on the maple floor board and cannot install this house is renovated and has no air condition so I cannot de-humidify the house the flooring is still in there carton boxes instruction sheet keep in boxes until ready to install I thought it would be better to take out of there carton to circulate air I need help on this on what to do thanks

  • dennis rutledge

    can a floating wood floor be used in a hunting camp that has no heat in the winter months. will the lack of heat cause buckling or cracking of the wood floor?

  • Not knowing what you purchased from them with regards to quality. We would recommend purchasing a dehumidifier and run it continually until the moisture level is down to between 6-10% then try and keep it at that level. Engineered flooring is more stable than a solid wood floor in environments with larger swings in Relative humidity levels. Check out our informative articles (listed in our menu) on of site for more information and here on our blog

  • Hi Dennis
    It would be the best choice with hardwood flooring using a floating floor and leave the required expansion gap at all walls and fixed objects.

  • Kathy Campbell

    I would like to purchase hardwood floor for my condo. Would kind of Cushing would I have to purchase so the noise level would be acceptable for the people living underneath us

  • Debra Rice

    Lowes obviously did not consult your website before selling me $4,500 worth of hardwood flooring they told us today – after waiting 3 weeks to have it installed – they CAN’T install.
    It took all of 15 minutes on your site for me to learn why. If the person charged with measuring our place had only asked to examine our subfloor, she would’ve put a cork in the whole project then. From where we’re sitting it seems Lowes is more interested in ‘making the sale’ than actually getting a job done right to begin with. Very disappointed in them. But thank you for the great information. I only wish I had trusted myself and come to your site first instead of trusting Lowes to be ‘professionals’.

  • Most condos require that a cork underlayment is used as cork has naturally great sound absorption properties and will minimize sound transfer from one floor to another.

  • Richard

    can hand scraped engineering floors be sanded – 2mm wear surface

  • Hi Richard,

    Handscraped engineered flooring can be sanded and refinished if it has a 2mm wear layer. Obviously though, by sanding, you’re going to lose some of that handscraped texture. If you’re noticing a lot of dents or deep scratches, sanding and refinishing may be your only option to get rid of them. However, if there are just a few scratches you may want to try using a touch up kit to avoid having to sand and refinish the entire floor. Additionally, if you’re just trying to update the sheen a bit, you may want to try using a Refresher from Bona Kemi, which will add a bit of shine to dulled flooring.

  • Robin

    You suggest sticking with the big well known hardwood manufacturers. Can you tell me who they are? Every store claims to have the big well known ones so it’s hard to know. Thank you!

  • Hi Robin,

    The hardwood flooring market is huge right now. There are a constant flow of hardwood flooring manufacturers coming in and out of the industry that sometimes a company can be putting out product one month and the next they’re gone. It’s always a good idea to work with manufacturers who’ve been around for awhile and have a stable footing within the industry. It can be difficult for a homeowner to figure out which companies have a good history and which ones are relatively young in the industry without doing a bit of research on each one. The internet is a great tool for this research, as most hardwood manufacturers have their own websites and any established brand will explain their history on their site.

    If a manufacturer’s website seems to be just thrown together or is missing key parts of information, it’s definitely a sign that you may want to stay away. Established manufacturers will have a good history of communication with their end users and will have contact information easily accessible on their site.

    Some of the established hardwood manufacturers that our customers love working with are: Anderson Hardwood, IndusParquet Exotic Floors, Kahrs Wood Flooring, Lauzon Wood Floors, Muskoka Hardwood Flooring and Somerset Hardwood Flooring. These manufacturers have been in the industry for decades and are known for standing by their products over the years and have an excellent reputation with homeowners throughout the U.S.

  • Jill Sawyer

    I have a question that I am seriously thinking about doing….my house is OLD and needs a lot of repair work done…. the house itself is sitting on stilts and blocks…the subfloor (from what I have been told) is solid and secure and I have had it leveled…. my problems lie in the aspect that the top floor has been damaged. its warped and uneven in some spots and even has some holes….the people that owned this house before myself just put bandaids over and over again on the top. there was a rotten place that I had to pull up and in doing so, there is hardwood flooring, ceramic tile, linoleum, you name it….I dont wish to spend well over a day trying to get the floor up…my thinking is to get a sander and smooth out the areas to level and smooth what is needing, and a dream of mine is to put some cement over it, so I will have cement floor on top of everything…PLEASE HELP! can I just go to lowes or home depot or someplace and get the cement needed? I know it will cost, but I just want to do 1 room at a time….please help with any suggestions….at my wits end because I am totally depressed in regards to this house…am a single mom with very little resources left and I just want to have a better self image when it comes to the house (have had people tell me it might do better to bulldoze and start from scratch, but I have no financial means for that)

  • Hi
    Not being there to look at it makes it tough to give you proper advise and you should bring a qualified flooring contractor in to evaluate the whole thing. But we always like to be able to remove the older floor covering down to the main subfloor where then you can re secure the decking it to the joists to help alleviate any squeaks and to fix any cracked or broken sections. Then add a new type of floor covering directly over that.

    Adding layer after layer of floor covering ads a lot of weight to the existing floor area possibly making it very unsafe. Most building codes limit the layers of vinyl to three. Adding cement will add a lot of weight and will most likely crack and break apart with the softer floor covering under neath.

  • Jill Sawyer

    thank you for the advice Jeff…I will surely get someone over here to look at it for me and let me know what they think I should do…God Bless

  • Mike Schoonmaker

    Hi Jeff, considering purchasing Indusparquet from your company. I came across this on indusparquet website that concerns me:

    In some cases, you might find our products available for sale on the Internet like it is a commodity. If you choose to purchase our products via the web, please be aware of the following. IndusParquet will not warrant its products when purchased over the Internet. Our products and programs are meant to be sold and serviced through one of our authorized dealers for the reasons stated above. IndusParquet cannot guarantee that the products you purchased are first quality goods. IndusParquet does not provide advice for professional installation for specific job applications to the consumer rather we supply installation guidelines to our trained retailers and they must apply them in their particular markets where they are the experts.

    If buying from your company, who would be warranting the product?


  • Hi Mike,

    We are an authorized dealer of IndusParquet, so all warranties offered by IndusParquet are valid and if any issues came up in the future with your IndusParquet flooring, you would let us know and we would work as a liaison between you and the manufacturer. Manufacturers like IndusParquet post warnings such as the one you saw as a caveat against purchasing online from websites where you don’t really know where the flooring is coming from (eBay, Amazon, etc.). We get all of our IndusParquet from an authorized supplier, who gets it directly from the IndusParquet mill so all the material we would send you would be authentic and 1st quality IndusParquet goods.

  • Ray Dennison

    Your contact page gives an error when I submit a question. I had two questions. Do you have 62 cases of Kahrs unity Garden Walnut in stock? Do you carry Kahrs slim base – the combined base/shoe stuff?

  • Hi Ray,

    We do currently have enough in stock to fill an order of 62 cartons. Unfortunately, my suppliers only carry the regular wall base, not the slim wall base.

  • Josh Balgley

    Thanks for providing such well organized, helpful information.

  • how long does it typically take to receive an order? How much is shipping or how is it calculated?

  • Hi Kathy,

    If a product is in stock, we can typically ship out within 2-3 business days of placing an order. If we need to order it in from the manufacturer, lead times can run anywhere from 1 week to 4 weeks (depending on the particular brand and stock level at their warehouse). We generally ship out of our warehouse in MA, so transit times do vary. East Coast transit time is approximately 2 to 4 business days. West Coast transit time is approximately 4 to 6 business days.

    Shipping charges can be calculated right on our website at You would just need to add a square footage amount to the cart and choose a state to ship to. Shipping rates depend on the specific product you’re interested in as well as quantity and ship to state. If you are shipping outside of MA, we don’t charge sales tax.

  • Wayne Thorniley

    I have a question about installing a floating floor in my kitchen. I would be installing it over the existing vinyl floor. Can I run the floor under the cabinets and do I need to be concerned that the weight of the refrigerator and stove would not allow the floor to move as intended?

  • Typically, with a floating installation, you can’t install cabinets on top of it but the stove and refrigerator would be fine. With the cabinets, the floating floor would have to be installed up to the cabinet edge and you would need to leave an expansion gap, which could be hidden with a quarter round or shoe base.

  • Daniel

    Hello Mr. Jeff and Happy Father’s Day to you. We have decided to install hardwood flooring in our 3 bedrooms and remove the 18 year old carpeting from our minds. My wife has decided after “consulting” with me to have prefinished hardwood floors installed. What manufacturer would your suggest and should we install some type of acoustic underlayment. Many thanks in advance.

  • Hi Daniel,

    The type of hardwood you’d be able to put down would really depend on the type of subfloor you have under the carpet: All About Subfloors. If it’s a plywood subfloor, you can install either solid or engineered. If it’s concrete, you’d have to go with engineered. We carry quite a few manufacturers all at different quality and price points. Top manufacturers include: Muskoka and Lauzon. Somerset is also a great brand of hardwood flooring, made here in the USA. Somerset is excellent quality, but less expensive than Muskoka or Lauzon. Anderson is great if you’re looking for a handscraped texture.

    All of those brands have both engineered and solid options. If you go with a solid hardwood, you would just need to use 15lb black felt paper during installation. If you go with a thinner engineered and plan on floating the floor, you may want to look into an acoustic underlayment. The one we use is Silent Stride. Or you could go with cork underlayment, which is a more natural underlayment type.

    Regardless of whether you go with solid or engineered flooring, you would need to take up the carpet pad and also any particle board (sometimes this is present under carpeted flooring) as these are not suitable for hardwood flooring to be installed over.

  • Jo

    We purchased our ‘dream home” and it is rapidly becoming the original money pit.’
    We have about 2600 sq ft of flooring that needs.. well.. flooring. Looking at click engineered and would like to know if there are any low-cost or discount brands that you can, in good conscience, recommend. We found a manufacturer called ADD FLOOR that offers a reasonably price product but they are manufactured in China and have an odd backing that is definitely not plywood. Have you heard anything about this company?

  • Hi Jo,

    Unfortunately, we’ve never heard of ADD Floor so we really can’t give an opinion on the quality of the material. If you’re looking for something made in the USA, the least expensive click lock options on our site are going to be the Traditions SpringLoc from Harris Wood:

  • Kevin

    We are looking into the above product (Traditions SpringLoc from Harris Wood) for a back room with lots of natural light and an entryway. Would you have any concerns with the changes in heat (from direct sunlight) or water damage (from tracking in snow, etc) with this product? Engineered better than solid for this application?

    Somewhat related question: In looking into Harris Wood products, I noticed that they were bought by QEP in 2010. I know HomeDepot sells a lot of QEP products; do they source their flooring through QEP/Harris under the brands Millstead and/or Heritage Mill (and then figure out the rest via HoskingHardwood? :) )?

    Thanks in advance!!

  • Lisa

    We are building and part of the home is on a basement and part will be on a slab. Do you recommend a floating floor for that? Also, I read that Shaw will be distributing Anderson floors in the midwest. I live in Kentucky. Do you still recommend Anderson? If there is a Shaw floor that we like is that still a good product – I’ve read both good and bad reviews.

  • Hi Lisa, floating is the most popular install method these days for below grade (basement levels). You could also glue down, but it’s a bit messier and more labor intensive. More information on floating floors here: Floating Floors.

    Shaw has owned Anderson for a couple of years now. You’ll find good and bad reviews for any product. I would say the majority of bad reviews come from homeowners that don’t understand that hardwood flooring is a naturally porous material and will dent if something heavy is dropped on it. Also, the finish isn’t 100% scratch proof. The Aluminum Oxide finishes used on prefinished flooring are a lot more durable than site finished floors, but they aren’t indestructible. Overall, we really like the quality of the Shaw and Anderson woods. We particularly recommend Anderson if you’re looking for a handscraped texture as their collections are very authentic looking. Whichever brand you choose, just remember to take a look at the installation instructions (most brands will have them available right on their website). The instructions will have specifics on limits of moisture content, unlevel subfloors, etc. When engineered floors are installed incorrectly, the product doesn’t perform as it’s supposed to and we see a lot of complaints coming from that as well.

  • Hi Kevin,

    There may be a little bit of color change due to the sunlight hitting the floor but it shouldn’t be noticeable. Most wood species are going to darken a little with exposure to light (typically exotic woods darken a lot more than domestic wood species). Moisture coming in from the outside could be a cause for concern but only if it’s a constant. Most homeowners prevent this be just using mats at doors leading out and cleaning up any de-icer or sand that is brought in on shoes (this will scratch and/or eat away at the finish eventually). QEP did purchase Harris Wood a few years back. As far as Millstead or Heritage Mill, I’m not really sure who specifically owns the brands. A lot of times large flooring manufacturers will sell their products at big box stores like Home Depot or Lowes under a pseudonym for a much cheaper cost because they don’t want their actual brand name to lose prestige with the super low price. Usually in these situations, quality does suffer.

  • Eric

    With wider planks (more than 3 inches), I’ve heard that it’s recommended to use an adhesive in addition to staples/cleats to help minimize cupping. However, if an adhesive is used, I would not be able to use an underlayment. What is more important? The added moisture protection from the underlayment, or the added support from the adhesive?

  • Eric

    Would there be any benefit to the following installation procedure:
    If you really don’t want to glue your boards directly to the subfloor, another option is to do a ‘floating style’ glue assisted. In this method, the boards are given a bead of floating floor adhesive along the tongue and groove joint, just as you would for a standard floating install, then set into place and nailed. By gluing the boards to each other, the entire floor has a mass that helps keep it in place even if individual staples work loose.

  • Hi Eric,

    We recommend choosing one method of installation only. You can staple or nail down solid or engineered wood, using a black felt paper as underlayment. Or you can glue down engineered. Or you can float engineered by using the method you described over a foam or felt underlayment but don’t nail or staple down in addition to floating. The floating floor should be allowed to float freely over the underlayment. Wider boards do have a tendency to expand and contract more than the narrower boards, but the engineered construction helps to minimize that. In addition, floating the floor will allow the floor to expand and contract as a whole, instead of as individual boards. You could also look into click locking engineered boards, which allow for a glueless floating installation and typically come in the wider widths.

  • Eric

    Thanks for the response Jeff. I should have clarified, I am interested in 3/4″ hardwood, not engineered wood. Is there any benefit to using an adhesive in addition to staples/cleats. My concern is that this would not allow for use of an underlayment. What would provide the better benefit, the underlayment or the adhesive? Thanks again.

  • Hi Eric,

    We would recommend using black felt paper as the underlayment and then nailing or stapling down — no adhesive.

  • Dylan

    Lowes and Home Depot searching Hosking Hardwood and not smart enough to use a VPN. I would never buy any product from the big box stores. Look for a Certified Installer

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